Get a denser piece of ethafoam if you can. If not, the one accompanying the quiver is serviceable. Use the wooden plug for a template. After you cut it to outline and depth, mark the foam with a wide felt tip so that 6 or 7 broadheads lay in there, staggered and nicely spaced. I've done both numbers satisfactorily, but seven is harder to get to when you use a glove rather than a tab. In which case I rotate the wooden and ethafoam plug 90 degrees so it is wider than deeper.

Seat broadheads into the layout marks. Retract them and then with a heat gun or a propane torch graze the surface. This will open up the slits slightly, creating pockets for your broadheads. Place broadheads back into the pockets while the foam is still warm so they will chill off in the correct shape. Afterwards, dip broadheads in vaseline and work each pocket thoroughly. This helps keep broadheads from rusting and also makes extraction smooth and easy, even when wet.

Rub the quiver down with Montana Pitch Blend and warm it into the leather, including the Cherokee lace strap, reglaze the bh pockets with vaseline once in a while and you are set for life. Quiver will flat not wear out on you.

If you want to use the quiver for 3-D, roving or small game hunting, simply remove the foam and lay in an assortment of arrows.

To keep the front square corners of your 6" mill file from scraping and scarring your quiver, radius them on a grind stone. If through use the sheath becomes too loose for the file, simply add a dollop of beeswax or string wax to the end of the file and it will transfer "grab" to the sheath. A similar treatment with your solo stalkers, should they relax too much over time, will restore them to their original function.

Good hunting,

Dean